Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research (IJFTR)

Development of thermal layer using low twist yarns and roving of aramids and FR viscose blend

Shweta Chauhan — 2024-10-08

In this study, various fabrics of FR Viscose, m-aramid, and p-aramid have been manufactured using low-twist yarn as well as roving, and then studied for their thermal and mechanical properties. The ring-spinning system is used to manufacture different low-twist yarns and roving. Twenty-one (21) woven fabric samples with 1 up 1 down plain weave using three combinations out of these yarns and roving in warp and weft have been produced. The three combinations are Yarn/Yarn, Yarn/Roving, and Roving/Roving. The radiant heat transfer index (RHTI24) and convective heat transfer index (HTI24) of the fabrics of m-aramid, p-aramid, and FR viscose made out of Yarn/Yarn combination with different blend compositions are found in the range of 7.5–11.4 s and 7.2 – 9.6 s respectively. However, the fabrics made out of Yarn/Roving and Roving/Roving combinations with different blend compositions show radiant heat transfer index and convective heat transfer index in the range of 11.4 – 19.9 s and 10.5–17.7 s respectively. The HTI24 – HTI12 values of all the samples are found to be more than 4 s, which indicates a good escape time from feeling pain to suffering a second-degree burn in both convective and radiant heat. All 21 woven fabrics qualify for the passing criteria of flame spread as per EN 469 standard. Statistical analysis (ANOVA) is carried out using SPSS software in order to establish the correlation between the fabric samples made out of three types of fibres and their blends in the Roving/Roving combination with convective heat and radiant heat properties.

Dyeing of pashmina wool using Butea monosperma flower extract

Harshal Patil — 2024-10-08

Pashmina wool has been dyed with natural dye extracted from flowers of Butea monosperma using an aqueous method,
and its optimization is done by response surface methodology. The scoured wool is mordanted with tannic acid and dyed
with the aqueous extract of natural dye. The dyebath parameters have been optimised by varying concentration, temperature,
and time in the range of 10–30%, 50– 90o
C, and 40–80 min respectively. Box-Behnken response surface methodology is utilized to standardise the process parameters. The dyed samples are evaluated for colour strength (K/S), wash fastness, and light fastness. The maximum and minimum K/S, achieved after dyeing, are 3.41 and 1.31 respectively. The wash fastness performance of the dyed samples shows high colour change, however the staining on adjacent wool and cotton is found minimal. Light fastness rating is found good to moderate and considered to be within the permissible limits. The statistical model suggested by RSM is found significant, with a P value of less than 0.05 and an F value of 39.2, and validated by performing selected experiments of high desirability. The results of the predicted and experimental K/S are found very close. This study indicates the potential increase in the use of natural dyes in indigenous pashmina wool varieties.

Influence of superabsorbent fibre in cotton web on absorption of saline solution

Rupali Dhiman — 2024-10-08

Three types of nonwoven structures, viz. one mono-component (100 % cotton) and two bi-components (homogeneously dispersed fibres and layer-wise assembled fibres) have been prepared and then evaluated for absorption performance. The addition of superabsorbent (SAF) fibres into the nonwoven structure marginally improves the absorption capacity of the homogeneously blended structure in comparison to the 100 % cotton web. The liquid (synthetic urine) retention of the cotton web is found to vary between 45 % and 65 %, depending upon the external pressure. The SAF, however, increases the retention capacity significantly. Amongst all the structures, the retention of layered structure is found to be superior to the rest.

Selection of raw material parameters for multi-response optimization of cotton yarn qualities

Subhasis Das — 2024-10-08

In this work, a multi-response optimization of cotton yarn quality using desirability function approach has been attempted. Being a natural product, cotton yarn qualities are primarily governed by raw material characteristics. This work aims to resolve the complexity of simultaneous optimization of raw material properties using a hybrid multi-response optimization model, where predictive power of support vector regression and optimization capability of genetic algorithm are employed with desirability function. The individual desirability of cotton fibre qualities is assessed from the six properties, such as fibre strength, elongation, fineness, upper half mean length, uniformity index and short fibre content. The yarn quality parameters, such as yarn strength, yarn elongation, hairiness and unevenness, are combined together to express overall desirability. The optimum cotton quality parameters essential to produce good quality yarn can be determined from the proposed multi-response optimization model.

Critical characterization of low porosity ripstop parachute canopies using smallscale impact and quasi-static loading principle

Kumari Neha — 2024-10-08

Three levels of maximum sustainable tensile impact load (400, 450 and 500 N) of a small rectangular ripstop parachute canopy specimen stitched at a 45° seam angle have been studied manually. Using the scale-up approach, the proportionate peak sustainable opening shock force for T10, C9, and G11 low porosity canopies have been computed subsequently. This study also characterize the small rectangular unseamed and seamed specimens at 0° and 45° seam angles under three levels of a maximum sustainable range of tensile impact and quasi-static loads. The ANOVA analysis shows that the fabric seam joining has a greater effect on the specimen’s performance than the seam angle and applied load. It is also observed that the specimen degrades significantly more under impact load than the corresponding quasi-static load. Under quasi-static and impact loads, the seamed specimen exhibits more strength and elongation loss than the unseamed specimen. Further, the strength loss for the 0° seam angle is more than the 45° seam angle. The specimen with 45° seam angle exhibits better performance under impact and quasi-static load comparably and exhibits higher loss in elongation but still has higher breaking elongation than the specimen stitched with 0° seam angle at the same load level.

Effect of bamboo/silk blending on moisture management characteristics of fabrics

T S Geethanjali — 2024-10-08

This study aims at determining the moisture management behavior of the silk/bamboo blended fabrics. It is observed that the fabric made from the higher bamboo content has lower wetting time and the fabric made from the higher silk content has higher wetting time. Higher bamboo content fabric has a higher absorption rate, accumulative one-way transport index, spreading speed and overall moisture management capacity as compared to higher silk content fabric.

Influence of sewing thread fineness and seam type on thermal properties of seams

M Maanvizhi — 2024-10-08

This research is aimed at studying the impact of micro-denier polyester filament on seam thermal comfort properties.
Sewing threads of 150 deniers have been proposed from textured micro˗denier polyester filaments with five different
filament numbers (3.94 dpf, 3.1 dpf, 1.38 dpf, 1.04 dpf, and 0.52 dpf), calculated based on the number of the filament within
the specified fibre diameter. The stitch density (10 stitches per inch) has been used. It is observed that the air permeability
and water vapour permeability increase with an increase in sewing thread filament fineness on the seam line. The thermal
properties of the seamed fabric are highly influenced by the sewing thread filament fineness. Micro filaments of the sewing
thread improve the thermal conductivity of the seams. Air permeability and moisture vapor transmission rate increase as the
fineness decreases in the micro-denier range. All the results are statistically analyzed using ANOVA at 0.05 significance
levels. The statistically analyzed results show that the sewing thread filament fineness is significantly affecting the thermal
properties of the seamed fabric.

Dyeing of jute with annatto seeds and other natural dyes

Ritwik Chakraborty — 2024-10-08

Jute fabric samples have been dyed with aqueous solution of annatto (A) seeds along with three other natural dyes, viz. onion (O) skin, pomegranate (P) rind and marigold (M) flower petals. Varying proportions of binary mixture of these dyes have been used to dye jute fabrics which are mordanted with myrobolan and natural alum before dyeing. The dyeing performance is evaluated by measuring the colour strength and other related parameters along with the fastness properties of the dyed jute fabrics. The dyed samples are further treated with chitosan and n-cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide (CTAB) to improve wash fastness. The treatments improve the wash fastness by 1 grade. The treatment of dyed jute fabrics with benzotriazole improves the light fastness by 1 grade. The compatibility of annatto dye with respect to other three dyes has also been assessed by plotting two different curves, viz. ΔC* vs ΔL* and K/S vs ΔL* for progressive depth of shade for each set of binary mixtures. These results are compared with a new parameter called Colour Difference Index (CDI). The results of CDI are in tandem with the results found from the plots, implying that the three binary pairs of natural dyes are comparable in different degrees.

Influence of weave structure on mechanical properties of cotton fabrics reinforced with unsaturated polyester

H C Obasi — 2024-10-08

The effect of weave structure on the mechanical properties of cotton fabric reinforced with unsaturated polyester (UP) resin has been studied. Cotton yarns are woven into four weave structures (plain 1/1, rib 4/4, twill 3/1 and satin 5/2 weaves) on a tappet loom. Fabrication of the composite is done using the hand lay-up technique. Results show that the twill fabric has an optimal strength of 15.21 MPa, while satin fabric shows the least tensile strength of 11.31MPa. The tensile and flexural strengths of the composites are improved by 47–140% and 44–49% when compared with neat polyester resin respectively. Composite with twill fabric shows the best tensile and flexural strengths of 48 MPa and 73.2 MPa, a tensile modulus of 0.37 GPa and elongation-at-break of 52.8%, which is closely followed by plain, rib and satin weave composites. Charpy impact test shows that the twill fabric composite absorbs more energy followed by the plain, rib and satin fabric composites. Moreover, the characterization of the composites evaluated by SEM and FTIR shows better bonding of treated fabric with the hydrophobic polyester and the presence of functional groups respectively.

Effect of directional loading on mechanical performance of HDPE warp knitted mesh fabric

Sandeep Kumar Maurya — 2024-10-08

This study examines the mechanical properties of high-density polyethylene (HDPE) warp-knitted mesh fabrics under varying directional loads. Four distinct fabric structures have been produced using different lapping plans on a tricot warp knitting machine, with each structure tested under three directional loads (0°, 45°, and 90°). The findings show a significant improvement in breaking strength in the wales (0) direction as compared to those in other fabric directions (45, 90) in all the fabric structures. Also, closed loop warp knit structure (S4) has greater bursting strength than the other samples due to its maximum stitch density.

Structural effect of weft knitted pressure garments on applied pressure and thermal comfort properties

Mahsa Pourmohammad — 2024-10-08

This study aims at examining the effect of structural and process variables on thermal comfort properties of the
compression garments produced with single-jersey weft knitted construction. The considered variables are elastane yarn
count, elastane yarn tension during yarn positive feeding, reduction factor and fabric structure. To this end, 18 samples are
manufactured according to Taguchi orthogonal array on a circular knitting machine. Heat transfer per cent, moisture transfer
in the liquid phase and air permeability of the knitted fabrics have been measured and reported. The compression garments
are sewn in cylindrical shape and the pressure applied on a cylinder is also measured by Kikuhime pressure sensor.
The results demonstrate that the samples containing knit and miss stitches apply the highest amount of pressure and the sample having more tuck stitches represents the lowest pressure. Also, increasing the linear density of the elastic yarn and using a higher reduction factor provide a higher pressure. The results indicate that fabrics exerting greater pressure on the body have a tighter structure when stretched. Therefore, they show less air permeability, heat and moisture transfer. Also, for a certain fabric structure, an increase in reduction factor leads to open structure and creating more pressure. Consequently, air permeability and the heat and moisture transfer are increased. Samples which apply less pressure, are more permeable and transfer greater amount of heat, and moisture through their structure due to creation of an open structure in extended state.

Flame retardancy of cotton fabric using sustainable tree gum

J J Gayathri — 2024-10-08

Mesquite tree gum (Prosopis gum), an agro waste, has been investigated as an innovative flame-resistant material. The
extracted mesquite gum is adjusted at three different pH (5, 9 & 12) and applied on selected bleached cotton fabrics. The
vertical flammability test and the limiting oxygen index (LOI) have been used to analyse the flame-retardant qualities of cotton (control and finished) fabrics. The mesquite gum finished fabric at alkaline pH (12) shows LOI value of 27%, which is 1.5 times greater than that of the control fabric. Besides, a char length of 85mm indicates self-extinguishment. The char surface morphology indicates that mesquite tree gum preserves fibre integrity. Durability of the flame-retardant property of the treated fabric to washing and rubbing has also been studied. The results of thermal degradation show 35 % weight loss with control cotton fabric against 29% weight loss of the mesquite tree gum finished fabric sample at 900 oC. Hence, mesquite tree gum has a good potential to be a sustainable flame retardant.

Woven face mask made from CoolMax fibres with three layers

Mujallid Rasha Samer Mohammad — 2024-10-08

In this research, ten fabric samples of CoolMax have been produced for preparing reusable face masks. The first group of five woven fabric samples has been produced with different fabric structures (plain weave 1/1, basket weave in warp direction, basket weave in both directions, satin 8, and twill 3/1) with both warp and weft yarns having 750 twists/m. The other group of five woven fabric samples is produced with the same fabric structures but by using 850 twists/m for warp and weft. The plain weave 1/1 fabric is treated with a water-repellent finish. The fabric properties, such as anti-bacterial, moisture, and air permeability, have been evaluated. It is observed that the fabric samples produced from CoolMax with twill, basket weave, and satin would be suitable for the inner and middle layer of the face mask, as they absorb droplets, and liquids and prevent bacteria, while the treated plain weave 1/1 fabric with water-repellent finish can be used for the outer layer. The woven face mask with three layers has been evaluated by objective and subjective methods, and the results show that the air permeability is 15.8 cm3/cm2/s, which is good in terms of breathability as compared to a disposable face mask, and withstand 25 cycles of washing for anti-bacterial property. The suggested woven face mask with three layers can reduce
the spreading of the infection of COVID-19.

Effects of sewing thread filament fineness on moisture management properties of seams

M Maanvizhi — 2024-10-08

To study the impact of micro-denier filament on seam comfort properties, five different micro-denier polyester filament
threads with different fibre fineness (from medium-fine to micro fibres) have been studied. Sewing threads of 150 deniers
are made of textured micro-denier polyester filaments with five different filament numbers, viz 3.94 dpf, 3.1 dpf, 1.38 dpf,
1.04 dpf, and 0.52 dpf; calculated based on the number of filament within the specified fibre diameter. The stitch density 10
stitches/inch is used. It is concluded that wetting time, absorption rate, and spreading speed have improved when the
filament fineness is varied from 3.94 dpf to 1.38 dpf and dropped from 1.38 dpf to 0.52 dpf. The seam constructed with 1.38
dpf shows the optimum level of moisture management capacity. OMMC values are also indicating the same results.
Increasing filament fineness brings about an increase in air permeability and moisture vapour transmission from the seam
made with 3.94 dpf to the seam made with 0.52 dpf, attributable to enhance the availability of free air in the seam structure.